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Haunted London Tours. Ghosts of the West End.

This walk goes through an area with a decidedly royal feel. It includes a refreshing stroll through the delightful St James’s Park, where you can admire the abundant and varied species of waterfowl, descendants of those introduced by Charles II. You may also encounter the headless woman who has been known to disturb the peaceful tranquillity of the park from time to time. Then, after passing two Royal Palaces (both haunted), you enter the timeless village of St James’s, where several old houses are still visited by residents who have long since shuffled off this mortal coil. The walk ends in the elegant streets of Mayfair. Here is the most haunted house in London, where you might just glimpse the thing that has caused several people to throw themselves to painful deaths from upper windows. The last section, although lacking in ghosts, takes you into the narrow alleyways and courtyards of Shepherd’s Market, where you should explore the old-fashioned labyrinth of streets.

Start St James’s Park Underground Station (Circle and District lines)

Finish Green Park Underground Station (Jubilee, Piccadilly and Victoria lines)

Distance 3 miles (4.8 kilometres)

Duration 2 hours.

Best Time At night, when much of the route is deserted and the gaslamps lend a delightfully eerie quality to Green Park

DIRECTIONS

Leave St James’s Park Underground Station from the Petty France exit and go over the pedestrian crossing into Queen Anne’s Gate. Follow it as it turns right and, halfway along, pause by the statue of Queen Anne (1665–1714).


There is a local tradition that, at the stroke of midnight on 1 August (the anniversary of the Queen’s death), the statue climbs down from the pedestal and walks up and down the street three times. No doubt, as the Queen keeps her annual vigil, she pauses to admire what is architecturally one of the finest streets in London.

DIRECTIONS

At the end of Queen Anne’s Gate go left into Dartmouth Street and then straight ahead to the clearly visible Cockpit Steps.


From the bottom of the steps a headless lady is often seen moving across the pavement and drifting over the road in the direction of St James’s Park, opposite. The Times, told in January 1804, of two Coldstream Guards who were so frightened by her that they were confined to hospital, where they remained seriously ill for some considerable time. In 1972, a motorist driving along here late at night collided with a lamppost when he swerved to avoid a woman in a red dress who suddenly appeared before him. Amazingly, the history of the mysterious haunting was brought up at the subsequent court case and the motorist was acquitted of dangerous driving!

DIRECTIONS

Turn left off the steps and cross the pedestrian crossing into St James’s Park


Thepark was originally laid out for James I in 1603 and re-landscaped for Charles II in 1660. In 1667 he introduced exotic birds to the park. Go along the path through the beautiful and picturesque park and pause on the bridge. This crosses the delightful lake, which dates from 1827, when John Nash re-landscaped the entire park.

A headless woman is sometimes seen in this vicinity. She rises slowly from the dark rippling waters and drifts slowly across the surface of the lake. Reaching dry land, she breaks into a frenzied run, her arms flailing wildly about her. Petrified onlookers stand rooted to the spot as the headless figure rushes towards the bushes and vanishes. In life, she is thought to have been the wife of a sergeant in the guard who murdered her in the 1780s. Having hacked off her head, he buried it in a secret location before flinging her body into the lake, which was then little more than an expanse of marshy ground. Since that fateful day her headless spectre searches in vain for its missing head.

DIRECTIONS

Cross the bridge, where you have a superb view of Buckingham Palace on the left. Walk ahead along the path that leads to the Mall and go over the pedestrian crossing, then turn left along the Mall and turn first right into Stable Yard Road.


Look through the gates at the house. Built in 1825 for the Duke of Clarence, who was later to become King William IV, Clarence House today is the London home of Prince Charles. During World War II, the building housed the offices of the Foreign Relations Department of the British Red Cross Society.

In her book Haunted Royal Homes Joan Forman tells of a clerk, Sonia Marsh, who was working alone in the vast building one Saturday afternoon when she got the uneasy feeling that something was watching her. Looking into the darkness, she saw a greyish, smoky, triangular mass coming towards her in a bobbing motion.†Petrified, she leapt to her feet, grabbed her coat and raced from the building into the chill of a gloomy October afternoon.†When on Monday morning she told a colleague of her experience, the woman commented, ‘It was probably the Old Duke of Connaught.’†Arthur, Duke of Connaught, the third son of Queen Victoria, lived at Clarence House from 1900 until his death in 1942.†It would appear, however, that his ghost was roaming the corridors and rooms of his London home for several years afterwards.

DIRECTIONS

Return to the Mall and pause by the next right turning. You can either cross over or remain here and look at Buckingham Palace.


This, the Queen’s London residence, was built in 1703 for John Sheffield, the first Duke of Buckingham. George III was the first monarch to own it, beginning a restoration that would continue through the reigns of George IV and William IV before the young Queen Victoria moved into the building in 1837.

Long before, a priory stood on the site on what was then an inhospitable site surrounded by marshland. Some say that it is the ghost of a monk who died in the monastery’s punishment cell that haunts Buckingham Palace. He always appears on Christmas Day, on the terrace overlooking the gardens to the rear of the building. Bound in heavy chains and dressed in brown, he clanks and moans his way backwards and forwards for a few minutes before fading into nothingness, not to be seen again until the next Christmas.

The palace has a second and more contemporary ghost, dating from the reign of Edward VII. Major John Gwynne, the King’s private secretary, was involved in a scandalous divorce that meant he was shunned by polite society. In shame, he retired one night to his first-floor office with a revolver and blew out his brains. Since that day, staff working in the vicinity have occasionally heard a gun firing in the room where the suicide occurred.

DIRECTIONS

Turn right along the pathway that goes alongside Green Park.


The park is reputed to have been the burial ground for the nearby leper’s hospital of St James’s. This is said to be the reason for its lack of flowers. Park-keepers whisper in hushed tones about a particular tree which they have dubbed, poetically the ‘Tree of Death’. They give it a wide berth when working in the park, no birds sing from its branches, and dogs avoid it. A general feeling of melancholy is said to emanate from it, which may account for the high number of suicides that have been found hanging from its branches. A few witnesses have been scared witless by a throaty, gurgling chuckle that suddenly sounds from inside the tree. Others have caught glimpses of a tall, shadowy figure that stands beside the tree, pointing at them, but which vanishes the moment any brave or curious person moves towards it.


 




 


 

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